
Mexicana Airlines flies to several Mexico destinations from LAX. We were off to our first ever Mexican trackchasing adventure.

We were flying from the Tom Bradley International terminal at the Los Angeles International Airport. You can go just about anywhere in the world from there.

When we landed in Guadalajara, there was no jet way to the terminal. We deplaned the old fashioned way.

The great thing about Carol is that she can carry her own bags!

Once we were on the ground, each passenger boarded a shuttle bus to the terminal. Clearing customs was relatively easy. No photos are allowed in the customs area.

This was our only piece of checked luggage! I'll tell you what was in it later in the story.

It didn't take me long to make my first Mexican friend.

When we travel to foreign countries, it is against our personal code of ethics to eat in American branded restaurants except under the most unusual of circumstances.

Guadalajara is the second biggest city in Mexico with more than 3 million residents.

We were trying to find the racetrack when we came across this roadside food stand. The sign advertises "chicken, steak, pork". We had to stop and sample their fare.

As you can see these eateries are within feet of the highway.

Those are tortilla chips in the bin in the foreground. She's mainly grilling chicken at this point.

This young girl is cooking up a batch of tortillas. She presses them down with her left hand and places them on the grill with her right hand. We are more than 1,000 miles south of the U.S. border. The Mexicans in this part of the country are much more dark skinned than their fellow citizens in the northern part of Mexico.

Carol and I are ready to eat our meal with Roger Ward, a good friend of our son J.J. Roger flies commercial airplanes for a living.

In my next life I will be a food photographer. The chicken tacos and Coca-Cola made a great late afternoon snack.

We were staying at the Presidente Inter-Continental Guatalajara Hotel. It was as nice inside as it was on the outside. When Carol is on the trip, we always go first class.

This is the entrance to the hotel lobby. The waterfalls and abundance of white marble were breath-taking.

These glass elevators took us to our room on the 14th floor. Yep! This was a lot nicer than the Motel 6!

The night before the race, we headed down to "Centro" Guadalajara. This downtown area has a number of old and beautifully constructed churches. The temperature was about 75 degrees and folks were out and about on a Saturday evening.

The churches were open to the public. As you can see, they were most ornate. In this photo a wedding is in progress at the end of the center aisle.
The lighting on these churches did a great job of highlighting the architecture.

I don't have a good feel for how long ago this church was built. This one was huge inside.

Carol and J.J. enjoyed the sights and sounds of downtown Guadalajara on a most comfortable fall evening.

It was not long before we were all seated for what would turn out to be my all-time favorite Mexican dining experience.

When we arrived this 10-piece Mariachi band was serenading the young senorita at the table next to us. You'll have to imagine your own Mariachi music.

At most Mexican restaurants they will give you a basket of chips and a small bowl of salsa. At the Santo Coyote restaurant in Guadalajara, the salsa is prepared at the table from a selection of 10 different ingredients. We went with the "spicy" salsa.

For the soup course of tonight's meal, J.J. and I went with the tortilla soup. I've never seen a restaurant pour the soup broth over the tortilla chips at the table before.

This sizzling pot would provide the shrimp fajitas for J.J. and Carol's dinner. The pot was filled with giant shrimp, vegetables and peppers. You can even see the concoction boiling over near the front of the pot. There was so much food, we could not even finish the shrimp which were the size of small hot dogs!

We couldn't pass up dessert in a restaurant like this. From the 10 choices, we went with the "Arizona". This featured a brownie base covered with a rice flavored Mexican flan and topped with nuts. Yes, it tasted as good as it looked.

The men's restroom was made to look like it might have some 100 years ago. Actually, it was most modern.
Folks would pay a pretty penny to have Mexican sinks like this built into a new home.

Once back at the hotel we emptied the entire contents of our checked luggage. Bottled water! You can't drink the Mexican water, if you want to enjoy the rest of your vacation. We came prepared.

On Sunday morning following Catholic church services, it was time for breakfast. Of course, a Mexican bakery presented itself and we were in business.

We ordered a little bit of everything. I will say this. Mexican pastries are much drier than their American counterparts.

This rotisseri chicken looked absolutely delicious on the walk back to the hotel. The grease from the rotating chicken fell onto the round potatoes below.

We found Mexican police at nearly every intersection as we walked around Guadalajara. It was most unusual to see trees in the middle of the crosswalks.

This was a funny sight. Check out the little "green man" runner. When we crossed the street the time (currently at "1") ticked down from thirty. The green man animated figure started running faster and faster as the clock ticked down. It was hilarious.

During our drive to the race track, we passed several pickup trucks with people riding in the truck bed. We passed and re-passed this truck a few times. The kids were having fun with our taking their picture.

It wasn't long before we found a sign leading us to the track.

The track is located about 20 kilometers south of Guadalajara. The English name of the town is Tiajomulco de Zuniga.











There were 32 quality looking stock cars starting today's 90-minute race.

Our seating area gave us a great view of turn three and four of the asphalt tri-oval.

This was turn one and two of the 0.9 mile tri-oval.

There wasn't much in the way of concessions on the backstretch side of the track. However, the line for Coronas never seemed to let up.

This guy could not pour the beer fast enough. Look at all of the empty bottles to the left. It was nearly 90 degrees and the fans wanted beer and more beer. I paid just 500 pesos (five dollars) for four mostly cold brews for the Lewis trackchasing team.

We were certainly close to the racing action with our seat location. I can't say much for the protective fencing at this track.

J.J., Carol and Roger look on in the rudimentary backstretch spectator area.

The fans were really into today's racing. When car #22 dumped the race leader the fans reacted with jeers and the famous "one-finger" salute.

The track "refreshments" were much different than what is offered at American tracks. This vendor was selling various forms of nuts and candies.

We didn't know for certain what this young fellow was selling with the French fries. We suspected the limes were there for some form of seafood, maybe squid?















DAY 1 – BURRITO 600 MEXICAN TRACKCHASING TOUR
Editor’s note:
This was our first ever trackchasing trip to
TODAY’S HEADLINES
What is one to do when they show up at a racetrack and no tickets are being sold?....................more in “Race Review”.
Do you remember Lewis and Clark? How about “Lewis and Carol”. They were the first true trackchasers to ever go trackchasing in the interior of
What would the real estate taxes on a $345,000 home near
Click on this link or paste it in your browser to take you to today’s Trackchaser Report via my website at
BUENAS DIAS FROM TIAJOMULCO de ZUNIGA, JALISCO,
WE WOKE UP IN GUADALAJARA, MEXICO THIS MORNING AND WENT TO SLEEP IN GUADALAJARA, MEXICO, BEFORE RETURNING TO SAN CLEMENTE, CALIFORNIA ON MONDAY. THIS IS WHAT TRANSPIRED TODAY.
PEOPLE/STRATEGY/TRAVEL NEWS
The Objective
Today was a historic trackchasing day for Carol and me. This was also one of the most enjoyable trackchasing trips we have ever had and we’ve had a huge number of fun trips. Actually, I can never recall a trip where we didn’t have fun. This was our first ever trackchasing visit to
Back in 2004, I had rotator cuff shoulder surgery. During my six-month recuperation period, I was not allowed to play golf. Up to that point I was seeing about 50-75 new tracks each year and playing golf more than 100 times a year.
With no golf to be played because of my shoulder surgery, I decided to pick up the trackchasing pace. I guess I have done that. Since that shoulder surgery (I have been fully recuperated since 2004), my golf has never surpassed the time I’ve spent trackchasing. Moreover, as you, the loyal reader of the Trackchaser Report, have come to recognize, I have been trackchasing vigorously.
Today marked the 600th track I have seen since the beginning of 2004. This covers a period of three years, nine months and 14 days. I’ll try to put that number in some perspective. Only 15 worldwide trackchasers have seen 600 tracks in their entire lives. The most tracks that any other trackchaser has seen in a full four-year period is 451 tracks (Ed Esser 2002-2006). This means I have averaged 150 tracks for each of the last four years. The average for all top 20 trackchasers (excluding my totals) over the past four years is 37 new tracks each year.
Today’s visit to
Carol and I were the first true trackchasers to ever visit the interior of
By the way,
Another interesting fact regarding foreign trackchasing is that none of the U.S. based top 20 trackchasers (other than Will White and Carol and me) has ever trackchased in a country where English is not the official (or co-official language) of that country. Why would that be? From my experience, it’s a whole lot easier to trackchase in countries where the signs are in English and you can stop and get directions in English!
Of the foreign countries where English is not the national tongue, I have been trackchasing in
The Trip
Saturday –
This trip to
I had checked with Mexicana Airlines a few days ago. I was speaking to a customer service agent for the carrier who seemed to be much more comfortable speaking Spanish than English. I hate trying to communicate with people whose first language is not English in English. I just never feel like they are really “tracking” with the conversation. The bottom line to our discussion was that slightly more than 50 seats were open on a 138-passenger airplane for our early Saturday morning planned departure. We were going trackchasing in
We left the house at 5:45 a.m. on Saturday. We then picked up J.J. at 7 p.m. at a friend’s house near LAX. The next step was to drop Carol and J.J. at LAX. They would handle the ticketing process while I parked the car at a remote parking lot. Everything was running smoothly. Too smoothly.
When I returned to the terminal, I was in for some shocking news. The plane that had 50 open seats just three days ago was now overbooked by 20 seats. That was not good news. However, I did not get in my current trackchasing position without having a backup plan…..or two. We could fly two hours later non-stop into
At the very last minute, the agent held up two fingers. He had two seats but we were a threesome. We put our heads together. Carol and I would go now. J.J. would take the flight two hours later. That way the ranked trackchasers would be sure to be in
Saturday –
Carol and I landed on time in
We had chosen to come to
We had completed our immigration forms for review by the Mexican country official. However, we had forgotten to complete one small section of the form. We were sent to the back of the line to finish our “homework”. That line had some forty people in it!
Finally, when the paperwork was corrected, we cleared customs. We had checked just one small duffle bag. The bag carried only eight bottles of bottled water. You can’t drink the water in
We were planning to have a fourth person join our weekend party. J.J.’s friend, Roger Ward, a pilot for Express Jet, the commuter arm of Continental Airlines was waiting for us when we landed. We would enjoy talking with Roger throughout our travels.
I wanted to get our rental car and visit the racetrack before J.J. landed in two hours. I only had the name of the track. I had no directions whatsoever. I figured I would simply ask the National Rental Car people how to get there. Not! The first young man from National that I ran into was operating out of a small stall about four feet wide. Even with me giving him hand gestures of a racecar driver with a pushing racecar, he couldn’t help me with directions. After taking the National Rental Car shuttle bus, the young woman checking me in could not help with directions. As we drove away from the rental car lot, we had absolutely no idea where the racetrack was!
I was generally pleased with the
Carol, Roger and I drove around for a bit, but then decided to return to the airport to wait for J.J. Roger waited inside the terminal while Carol and I waited in a temporary parking spot near the terminal’s front. From time to time, the Federales would come along and move us out of our squatter’s position.
My first purchase in
Soon J.J. landed on his Aero
It wasn’t long before J.J. had spoken to someone in Spanish, bought a map of the area and found the location of our track. The NASCAR website calls the track’s location,
We headed out to the track. Before we could get there, we all agreed we needed a snack. We stopped at one of the little roadside stands that serve chicken, beef and pork on spits just a few feet from the highway. Please look at the photos at www.ranlayracing.com. You’ll get a much better appreciation about what I’m talking about if you do. Soon we were eating chicken tacos and sitting around a small outdoor table while our hosts stamped and cooked fresh corn tortillas. Our Mexican culinary delights were just beginning.
We arrived at the racetrack at about 4 p.m. They had just finished practice for the day. We could only get as far as the front gate. J.J. asked in Spanish what time tomorrow’s race was scheduled to begin. He received answers of 9 a.m., 10 a.m. and 11 a.m. My website info had told me the race would start at 1:30 p.m. This amount of confusion was only the beginning of what we were going to be in for.
Our next stop would be our hotel for the two nights we would be in
However, when Trackchasing’s First Mother is with me, the standard of care rises dramatically. You see, I would like her to WANT to come on another trip and then another trip. I have to treat her well in order to avoid burn out.
I had a minor “ace up my sleeve” for the hotel. Airline crews get very nice discounts when they stay overnight on their trips. Roger was able to book us in the Presidente InterContinental Hotel
After a very short late afternoon nap, we were ready to go out on the town. Rather than battle the heavy downtown traffic for the evening, we “cabbed it” for our sightseeing and dinner plans.
The weather for the evening was absolutely gorgeous. The temperature was near 75 degrees. Cabs are inexpensive in
About every half block, there was one form of music or another. There were Mariachi bands, wind instrument bands and break-dancers seeking a few pesos for their efforts. By the way, did you know that Mariachi music began in
During the entire two days we were in the area, we heard only one person speaking American English. We ended up touring his home! I’ll tell you more about that later. Our walk in town took us past some hotels that were frequented by what you might call “women of the night”. They did not leave much to the imagination. I only saw one beggar (and he wasn’t very aggressive) during our entire trip.
After some quality time spent in downtown
J.J. had received three restaurant recommendations from the hotel. Of course, we were only in the market for Mexican food. Carol and I eat sitdown Mexican food at least once a week in local
Even though our cabbie got lost (not a problem since we were traveling on a fixed fare), we finally found the Santo Coyote restaurant. It’s located at 2379 Lerdo de Tarjeta in
With that as background, let me say that I have never ever eaten in a Mexican restaurant that comes close to the overall dining experience at the Santo Coyote. Please go to www.ranlayracing.com for some pictures of the food we were served. You’ll want to go out and get some Mexican cuisine for dinner tonight.
The restaurant has what I would call indoor/outdoor dining. We were greeted by a most friendly and beautiful hostess in the restaurant lobby. The restaurant’s courtyard, which much have been the size of two tennis courts, had huge trees sheltering the diners. In the trees were several large pineapple shaped amber lights. It was beautiful.
We were soon seated at a table for four just under one of the rooflines. There were balconies where other guests looked over the entire scene while they ate their dinner. When we arrived at our table, the table next to us was being serenaded by a 10-piece Mariachi band. I don’t know how long they had been playing at that table before we arrived, but they played for 45 minutes there after we sat down. Normally, I wouldn’t like that much Mariachi music that close by for that long, but the restaurant was so expansive it didn’t bother us.
Soon we were being served some of the most beautifully prepared and delicious Mexican foods I have ever eaten. We started off with salsa and chips. The chips were right out of the fryer. The salsa was prepared to our taste (spicy) at our table from a series of ten dishes that contained peppers, onions, and lots of other tasty spices and vegetables.
Next, came the soup and salads. I ordered the tortilla soup. My bowl was presented with just dry tortilla chips in it. The server came along and poured the liquid tortilla soup broth that brought the chips alive.
Carol and J.J. shared shrimp fajitas. The shrimp were absolutely huge. I had a shrimp dish as well. Those shrimp were nearly the size of hot dogs! Of course, we had the requisite
I don’t want to be crass and ruin your vision about our dining experience with very much talk about the dinner’s cost. However…..we had 3-4 drinks per person, the appetizer’s, huge entrees and dessert for a cost of just over $30 per person. That meal would likely cost twice as much and not be nearly as good at home and we have great Mexican food in SoCal. This meal was the highlight of the trip.
It was now midnight. A cab was waiting to take us back to our luxury hotel. Tonight we were experiencing what European trackchasers get to have all the time. We were getting to eat and entertain ourselves in the evening with our races being run during the day. Normally, American trackchasers have no time for a quality meal in the evening because we are sitting through some mindless delay of late starts and yellow flags. Our day was now complete. It had been a marvelous success and not a racing wheel had been turned……yet.
Sunday morning – Guadalajara, Mexico
Today’s race was scheduled to begin at 1:30 p.m. That gave J.J., Carol and I time to go to Catholic Church services at a church just a few blocks away. Obviously, we were the only Americans in the church. I was surprised that the congregation did not sing any hymns during the service.
Following church, we stopped off at a Mexican pastry shop. We filled a bag full of special treats and made our way back to the hotel. We did pass through a traditional shopping mall and noticed several American branded stores. You just can’t get away from those Americans!
Sunday afternoon and evening – South of Guadalajara,
Following the race, which ended just before 3 p.m., we had more touring to do. We wanted to find the “pyramids” that were in the area and possibly visit the town where tequila was invented. We never found either but we did come across some interesting sights.
The first was a small Mexican village that was having their annual festival. This village was definitely third world with brick pavers used for the town’s street surfaces. We parked and nosed around a bit. We ended up having some most unusual and tasty Mexican ice cream cones.
As we drove on, we came upon Lago de Chapala (
The home we looked at was situated on a hillside overlooking the lake. The home was part of 45 sites where primarily Americans lived. The owner, a native of
The owner told us his house was 2,700 square feet in size. “They measure all surfaces that are under a roof including the patios” in the square footage number, he told us. This was a nicely appointed, mainly brick two bedroom home. The asking price was $345,000. The owner told us his annual real estate taxes were just $62!! He also employed a gardener for five hours each week at a cost of $26. His maid worked for even less. We spent about 30 minutes in this fellow’s home and he proudly told us about his Mexican residential experience. He also pointed out that “there’s a Wal-Mart, Costco, Sam’s and Sears, all within a few miles as well as a McDonalds and Burger King”. I guess you might forget you were living in central
On the way back to the hotel, we stopped at a Pemex gas station to fill up our Dodge Avenger. In this part of
We returned to the hotel on Sunday evening at 7:45 p.m. We had time for one more local Mexican food dinner. Again, we relied on the hotel staff for a dinner recommendation. They did not disappoint.
The restaurant was within walking distance of the hotel on another beautiful weather evening with temps in the low 70s. J.J.’s Spanish skills smoothed the way for our dinner enjoyment.
We were served plates of “asada” (beef) and an unending supply of corn tortillas, beans, onions and guacamole. We ate until we burst and then walked back to the hotel. It was one fine meal.
Monday morning – Leaving Guadalajara,
On Monday morning, J.J. and Roger had to leave early to begin their flying workdays back in
It was eerie driving in the dark to the airport. The Mexican culture walks much more than we Americans do. Even at this early hour they were walking along the sides of the roads and waiting at bus stops as their week’s workday was about to begin.
I dropped Carol at the airport so she could begin the line manipulation while I returned the rental car. It’s really great to have such an independent spouse who can navigate on her own. That way, we can both be “multi-tasking” to make the trip go smoother. In no time, we had cleared Mexican security and were rewarded with first class seats on our way home to
Clearing customs back in the
The People
We were fortunate to have our son, J.J. and his friend Roger Ward accompanying us on this trip. It’s fun as a parent of adult children to know that they don’t might “hanging out” with their parents from time to time. Our kids have always been great about this.
J.J.’s presence was especially valuable on this trip. The official language of
I graduated from high school in
With this extra motivation, I improved my second six-week’s grade to a “B”. I played basketball. The third six-week grading period would end after the basketball season was finished. Therefore, from my point of view, there was no need to study any more Spanish! This resulted in my third six weeks grade being an “F” again. They felt sorry for this jock and gave me a numerical grade of 70 for the final semester grade, the lowest of “Ds” that a student could get.
Fortunately, J.J. took after Carol when it came to getting good grades. His high school language was Spanish. He ended up getting a score of five on the high school Spanish advanced placement test (score range 1-5) and getting college credit for his Spanish. J.J.’s Spanish ability really added to the enjoyment of everyone’s trip this weekend.
J.J. invited a friend along. His friend’s was is Roger Ward. My racing readers know that the name “Roger Ward” is famous in Indy racing circles. “Our” Roger Ward is a pilot for Express Jet, the commuter airline for Continental Airlines. Roger was a student of J.J.’s back when J.J. was instructing at flight school.
This weekend’s track was the first one we had ever seen in
Roger’s primary background is with the
We also enjoyed being able to ask questions of Roger about his military experience in
STATE RANKINGS
This was Carol’s and my first ever trackchasing trip to