Randy Lewis

World's #1 Ranked Trackchaser

TRIOVALO BERNARDO OBREGON, TIAJOMULCO de ZUNIGA, JALISCO, MEXICO

Mexicana Airlines flies to several Mexico destinations from LAX.   We were off to our first ever Mexican trackchasing adventure.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 We were flying from the Tom Bradley International terminal at the Los Angeles International Airport.  You can go just about anywhere in the world from there.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 When we landed in Guadalajara, there was no jet way to the terminal.  We deplaned the old fashioned way.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The great thing about Carol is that she can carry her own bags! 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Once we were on the ground, each passenger boarded a shuttle bus to the terminal.  Clearing customs was relatively easy.  No photos are allowed in the customs area.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 This was our only piece of checked luggage!  I'll tell you what was in it later in the story.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 It didn't take me long to make my first Mexican friend.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 When we travel to foreign countries, it is against our personal code of ethics to eat in American branded restaurants except under the most unusual of circumstances.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Guadalajara is the second biggest city in Mexico with more than 3 million residents.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 We were trying to find the racetrack when we came across this roadside food stand.  The sign advertises "chicken, steak, pork".  We had to stop and sample their fare.

As you can see these eateries are within feet of the highway.   

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Those are tortilla chips in the bin in the foreground.  She's mainly grilling chicken at this point.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 This young girl is cooking up a batch of tortillas.  She presses them down with her left hand and places them on the grill with her right hand. We are more than 1,000 miles south of the U.S. border.  The Mexicans in this part of the country are much more dark skinned than their fellow citizens in the northern part of Mexico.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Carol and I are ready to eat our meal with Roger Ward, a good friend of our son J.J.  Roger flies commercial airplanes for a living.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 In my next life I will be a food photographer.  The chicken tacos and Coca-Cola made a great late afternoon snack.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 We were staying at the Presidente Inter-Continental Guatalajara Hotel.  It was as nice inside as it was on the outside.  When Carol is on the trip, we always go first class.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 This is the entrance to the hotel lobby.  The waterfalls and abundance of white marble were breath-taking.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 These glass elevators took us to our room on the 14th floor.  Yep!  This was a lot nicer than the Motel 6!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 The night before the race, we headed down to "Centro" Guadalajara.  This downtown area has a number of old and beautifully constructed churches.  The temperature was about 75 degrees and folks were out and about on a Saturday evening.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 The churches were open to the public.  As you can see, they were most ornate.  In this photo a wedding is in progress at the end of the center aisle.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The lighting on these churches did a great job of highlighting the architecture. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 I don't have a good feel for how long ago this church was built.  This one was huge inside.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Carol and J.J. enjoyed the sights and sounds of downtown Guadalajara on a most comfortable fall evening.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It was not long before we were all seated for what would turn out to be my all-time favorite Mexican dining experience. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

When we arrived this 10-piece Mariachi band was serenading the young senorita at the table next to us.  You'll have to imagine your own Mariachi music. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 At most Mexican restaurants they will give you a basket of chips and a small bowl of salsa.  At the Santo Coyote restaurant in Guadalajara, the salsa is prepared at the table from a selection of 10 different ingredients.  We went with the "spicy" salsa.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 For the soup course of tonight's meal, J.J. and I went with the tortilla soup.  I've never seen a restaurant pour the soup broth over the tortilla chips at the table before.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This sizzling pot would provide the shrimp fajitas for J.J. and Carol's dinner.  The pot was filled with giant shrimp, vegetables and peppers.  You can even see the concoction boiling over near the front of the pot.  There was so much food, we could not even finish the shrimp which were the size of small hot dogs! 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We couldn't pass up dessert in a restaurant like this.  From the 10 choices, we went with the "Arizona".  This featured a brownie base covered with a rice flavored Mexican flan and topped with nuts.  Yes, it tasted as good as it looked. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The men's restroom was made to look like it might have some 100 years ago.  Actually, it was most modern. 

 

Folks would pay a pretty penny to have Mexican sinks like this built into a new home.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Once back at the hotel we emptied the entire contents of our checked luggage.  Bottled water!  You can't drink the Mexican water, if you want to enjoy the rest of your vacation.  We came prepared. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 On Sunday morning following Catholic church services, it was time for breakfast.  Of course, a Mexican bakery presented itself and we were in business.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 We ordered a little bit of everything.  I will say this.  Mexican pastries are much drier than their American counterparts.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 This rotisseri chicken looked absolutely delicious on the walk back to the hotel.  The grease from the rotating chicken fell onto the round potatoes below.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We found Mexican  police at nearly every intersection as we walked around Guadalajara.  It was most unusual to see trees in the middle of the crosswalks. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This was a funny sight.  Check out the little "green man" runner.  When we crossed the street the time (currently at "1") ticked down from thirty.  The green man animated figure started running faster and faster as the clock ticked down.  It was hilarious. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

During our drive to the race track, we passed several pickup trucks with people riding in the truck bed.  We passed and re-passed this truck a few times.  The kids were having fun with our taking their picture. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 It wasn't long before we found a sign leading us to the track.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The track is located about 20 kilometers south of Guadalajara.  The English name of the town is Tiajomulco de Zuniga. 

 

The fans walking into a race track in Mexico didn't look that much different than how they might appear in the U.S. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 When we entered the track property, these young women were handing out promotional gifts from a sugar cookie company. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Remember, we did not have tickets to today's race.  They were not selling any tickets at the track at all.  This is a perfect situation for the Lewis trackchasing team however.  Everyone had their own role to play.  Carol is in charge of foreign currency.  J.J. (blue shirt) is our foreign language specialist.  Roger (left) overseas each transaction to make sure it meets international law requirements.  I take the pictures.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 J.J. had just made the "buy".  The pesos have been exchanged for the tickets and he had placed them in his back pocket.  The seller's image is purposely blacked out although his silhouette can be seen positioned behind J.J.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
This is what our contraband tickets looked like. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 This is the back of the grandstand.  I don't know how long this race facility has been here.  I would guess more than 50 years.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Some of the concession offerings had an American flavor to them.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 These Mexican pit crew members are hauling their equipment to the pit lane in preparation for the start of the race.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 This was our view of the main grandstand from our seating position on the backstretch.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Our seats faced the sun.  This budding entrepreneur had the foresight to bring sombreros (400 pesos) for those folks who had come unprepared for El Sol.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 An old Mexican proverb states, "There's a gringo for every sombrero".

There were 32 quality looking stock cars starting today's 90-minute race. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our seating area gave us a great view of turn three and four of the asphalt tri-oval. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 This was turn one and two of the 0.9 mile tri-oval.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 There wasn't much in the way of concessions on the backstretch side of the track.  However, the line for Coronas never seemed to let up.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 This guy could not pour the beer fast enough.  Look at all of the empty bottles to the left.  It was nearly 90 degrees and the fans wanted beer and more beer.  I paid just 500 pesos (five dollars) for four mostly cold brews for the Lewis trackchasing team.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 We were certainly close to the racing action with our seat location.  I can't say much for the protective fencing at this track.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 J.J., Carol and Roger look on in the rudimentary backstretch spectator area.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 The fans were really into today's racing.  When car #22 dumped the race leader the fans reacted with jeers and the famous "one-finger" salute.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 The track "refreshments" were much different than what is offered at American tracks.  This vendor was selling various forms of nuts and candies.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 We didn't know for certain what this young fellow was selling with the French fries.  We suspected the limes were there for some form of seafood, maybe squid?

 

 

 

 

 

 

At mid-race we decided to try our luck and get into the main grandstand.  We waited until the police weren't looking and snuck in. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 I didn't realize until we found a seat in the main grandstand that the crowd had been standing the whole race.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 This is the track's front stretch.  It was a beautiful day, but a little warmer than I would have liked.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 There was a significant change in elevation as the cars left the final turn of the tri-oval and raced onto the front stretch.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 The Corona brand was everywhere at today's NASCAR Mexico division race.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Not every driver's day was a good one.  This driver crashed out of the race with less than five laps to go.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 The pit crew rushes to congratulate German Quiroga on his victory.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Who was this masked man who dares to stare directly into the eyes of www.ranlayracing.com visitors?

In some ways today's racing looked just like it does in the U.S.A. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 There are 31 states in Mexico.  Today's racing took place in the Mexican state of Jalisco.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Following the race we were off to find the "pyramids".  We never did find them but we did stumble across this small Mexican town that was in the midst of their annual festival.  Note the brick paved streets.  It was really tight when I came across an SUV heading in the opposite direction on this narrow street.  We eased by each other less than two inches apart! 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 This young horseman nearly ran over the World's #1 Ranked Trackchaser.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 We only had time for a little Mexican ice cream on this visit.  It was tasty.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 In what seemed like a flash it was time for our farewell dinner.  Our brief two-day visit to the interior of Mexico was coming to a close.  This meal of beef, corn tortillas, beans and onions was absolutely delicious.  Our servers kept coming back with refills of everything you see.  What was the cost of this tasty evening meal?  Thirteen dollars for the four of us!
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Food is an important part of my life.  I like eating good food.  The first class section of our Delta Airlines flight did not disappoint.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Editor's note:  I hope you have been able to experience the flavor of this Mexican trackchasing adventure.  Mexican authorities did not permit me to take photographs of everywhere we visited.  Nevertheless, I think you will get the full sense of the fun that can be had with the friendly Mexican people of Guadalajara and the surrouding area. 

 

DAY 1 – BURRITO 600 MEXICAN TRACKCHASING TOUR



Editor’s note:

 

This was our first ever trackchasing trip to Mexico.  I have tried to give you a complete explanation of what the trip included.  It was a fun time for everyone.  I would strongly recommend that you go to www.ranlayracing.com and take a look at the photos of this trip.  I think that especially for this trip, you might get the best understanding of what we encountered by looking at the pictures in addition to reading the words of this North American foreign adventure.  There are some 75 or so photos for your viewing pleasure.


 

TODAY’S HEADLINES

 

What is one to do when they show up at a racetrack and no tickets are being sold?....................more in “Race Review”.

 

Do you remember Lewis and Clark?  How about “Lewis and Carol”.  They were the first true trackchasers to ever go trackchasing in the interior of Mexico. …………..details in “The Objective”.

 

What would the real estate taxes on a $345,000 home near Guadalajara, Mexico be? …………..details in “The Trip”.

 

 

 

 

Click on this link or paste it in your browser to take you to today’s Trackchaser Report via my website at

www.ranlayracing.com

 

 

 

 

 

BUENAS DIAS FROM TIAJOMULCO de ZUNIGA, JALISCO, MEXICO.

 

 

 

 


WE WOKE UP IN GUADALAJARA, MEXICO THIS MORNING AND WENT TO SLEEP IN GUADALAJARA, MEXICO, BEFORE RETURNING TO SAN CLEMENTE, CALIFORNIA ON MONDAY.  THIS IS WHAT TRANSPIRED TODAY.

 

 

 



 

PEOPLE/STRATEGY/TRAVEL NEWS

 

 

 

 

The Objective 

 

Today was a historic trackchasing day for Carol and me.  This was also one of the most enjoyable trackchasing trips we have ever had and we’ve had a huge number of fun trips.  Actually, I can never recall a trip where we didn’t have fun.  This was our first ever trackchasing visit to Mexico.  Does that surprise you?  We live just 74 miles from the Mexican border.  We live closer to Mexico than we do too 99% + of all the racetracks in the United States.  Actually, this trip had more than one statistic of historical significance.

 

Back in 2004, I had rotator cuff shoulder surgery.  During my six-month recuperation period, I was not allowed to play golf.  Up to that point I was seeing about 50-75 new tracks each year and playing golf more than 100 times a year.

 

With no golf to be played because of my shoulder surgery, I decided to pick up the trackchasing pace.  I guess I have done that.  Since that shoulder surgery (I have been fully recuperated since 2004), my golf has never surpassed the time I’ve spent trackchasing.  Moreover, as you, the loyal reader of the Trackchaser Report, have come to recognize, I have been trackchasing vigorously.

 

Today marked the 600th track I have seen since the beginning of 2004.  This covers a period of three years, nine months and 14 days.  I’ll try to put that number in some perspective.  Only 15 worldwide trackchasers have seen 600 tracks in their entire lives.  The most tracks that any other trackchaser has seen in a full four-year period is 451 tracks (Ed Esser 2002-2006).  This means I have averaged 150 tracks for each of the last four years.  The average for all top 20 trackchasers (excluding my totals) over the past four years is 37 new tracks each year. 

 

Today’s visit to Mexico was a first of sorts as well.  Not very many people on the trackchasing list have ever made it to Mexico.  Only nine trackchasers have seen a track in Mexico.  None of these folks has seen more than one track here.  Six of those nine people were professional race drivers.  Another is the owner of the most popular national racing paper (National Speed Sport News) in the United States.  That means that up until now, only two true trackchasers, Will White and Guy Smith, have ever trackchased “south of the border”.  They only dipped their toe in the country by driving a few miles across the Texas border.

 

Carol and I were the first true trackchasers to ever visit the interior of Mexico for a trackchasing visit.  The track we saw today is more than 1,300 miles southeast of Los Angeles.  It’s not easy to get here and once you get here, it’s not easy to communicate.  I’ll tell you more about how all that went in “The Trip”.  We were fortunate enough to have our own special Mexican guide (son J.J.) and the services and support of Roger Ward (no, not THAT Roger Ward, winner of the 1959 and 1962 Indy 500s).  I’ll tell you more about J.J. and Roger’s contributions in “The People”.

 

By the way, Mexico was my ninth foreign country to trackchase in.  This was Carol’s sixth foreign country.  We both trail Roland Vanden Eynde’s career foreign country total of 36.  Of the U.S. trackchasers, we trail only Will White’s 18 foreign country visits.  We may also trail some professional race drivers in this pursuit.  I put those folks in their own special group since they are working at the same time they are “trackchasing”.

 

Another interesting fact regarding foreign trackchasing is that none of the U.S. based top 20 trackchasers (other than Will White and Carol and me) has ever trackchased in a country where English is not the official (or co-official language) of that country.  Why would that be?  From my experience, it’s a whole lot easier to trackchase in countries where the signs are in English and you can stop and get directions in English!

 

Of the foreign countries where English is not the national tongue, I have been trackchasing in Belgium, France, Germany, Netherlands and now Mexico.  Carol has Germany, Netherlands and Mexico in this category.  However, it is important to note that each time we have visited these non-English speaking countries, we have had a friend help navigate the local landscape.  Without that support, our trip would have been much more difficult.  Actually, the trip might have bordered on the impossible or at the very least uncomfortable.

 

 

 

     

The Trip

 

Saturday – Los Angeles

 

This trip to Guadalajara had been in the rough planning stages for months.  If everything worked out properly our son, J.J. would join Carol and me for the trip.  J.J. has to “bid” his flying trips a month in advance.  He was able to get the requisite days off so we could spend two days in Mexico.

 

I had checked with Mexicana Airlines a few days ago.  I was speaking to a customer service agent for the carrier who seemed to be much more comfortable speaking Spanish than English.  I hate trying to communicate with people whose first language is not English in English.  I just never feel like they are really “tracking” with the conversation.  The bottom line to our discussion was that slightly more than 50 seats were open on a 138-passenger airplane for our early Saturday morning planned departure.  We were going trackchasing in Mexico!

 

We left the house at 5:45 a.m. on Saturday.  We then picked up J.J. at 7 p.m. at a friend’s house near LAX.  The next step was to drop Carol and J.J. at LAX.  They would handle the ticketing process while I parked the car at a remote parking lot.  Everything was running smoothly.  Too smoothly.

 

When I returned to the terminal, I was in for some shocking news.  The plane that had 50 open seats just three days ago was now overbooked by 20 seats.  That was not good news.  However, I did not get in my current trackchasing position without having a backup plan…..or two.  We could fly two hours later non-stop into Guadalajara on Aero Mexico.  We waited to see if somehow a large number of people would not show for the Mexicana flight that was now overbooked. 

 

At the very last minute, the agent held up two fingers.  He had two seats but we were a threesome.  We put our heads together.  Carol and I would go now.  J.J. would take the flight two hours later.  That way the ranked trackchasers would be sure to be in Guadalajara with plenty of time to spare.

 

Saturday – Guadalajara, Mexico

 

Carol and I landed on time in Guadalajara.  There are 31 “states” in Mexico.  Guadalajara is the capital of the state of Jalisco.  Guadalajara is the second largest city in Mexico with more than three million residents.  The city is located about 330 miles to the Northwest of Mexico City.

 

We had chosen to come to Guadalajara because they were holding a NASCAR sanctioned stock car race on Sunday afternoon there.  When we landed, we deplaned from both the front and rear doors of the jet via the old jet stairways that take passengers outdoors.  Carol and I were some rows apart since we had gotten the last two seats on the plane.  After we reached the tarmac, all passengers boarded two shuttle buses that would take us to the terminal.  As luck would have it, we each boarded a different bus.  Carol might have been feeling a little bit of angst about being all alone in a foreign country.  She should never have worried as I always have my eye on her and her well-being.

 

We had completed our immigration forms for review by the Mexican country official.  However, we had forgotten to complete one small section of the form.  We were sent to the back of the line to finish our “homework”.  That line had some forty people in it!

 

Finally, when the paperwork was corrected, we cleared customs.  We had checked just one small duffle bag.  The bag carried only eight bottles of bottled water.  You can’t drink the water in Mexico.  At least, you don’t want too or you will be sorry.

 

We were planning to have a fourth person join our weekend party.  J.J.’s friend, Roger Ward, a pilot for Express Jet, the commuter arm of Continental Airlines was waiting for us when we landed.  We would enjoy talking with Roger throughout our travels.

 

I wanted to get our rental car and visit the racetrack before J.J. landed in two hours.  I only had the name of the track.  I had no directions whatsoever.  I figured I would simply ask the National Rental Car people how to get there.  Not!  The first young man from National that I ran into was operating out of a small stall about four feet wide.  Even with me giving him hand gestures of a racecar driver with a pushing racecar, he couldn’t help me with directions.  After taking the National Rental Car shuttle bus, the young woman checking me in could not help with directions.  As we drove away from the rental car lot, we had absolutely no idea where the racetrack was!

 

I was generally pleased with the Guadalajara drivers.  I guess I’ve been driving in L.A. long enough with similar motorists to have gotten used to it.  By the way, I used my MasterCard to provide auto insurance for my rental car.  My own personal car insurance does not cover me in Mexico.  The National Rental Car collision damage waiver was more expensive than the MasterCard insurance.  It also came with a $1,700 deductible.  MasterCard’s deductible was zero.

 

Carol, Roger and I drove around for a bit, but then decided to return to the airport to wait for J.J.  Roger waited inside the terminal while Carol and I waited in a temporary parking spot near the terminal’s front.  From time to time, the Federales would come along and move us out of our squatter’s position. 

 

My first purchase in Mexico was two scoops of ice cream for both of us.  The ice cream cost 116 pesos.  Currently, one U.S. dollar will buy about 10.8 Mexican pesos.  That meant our two ice cream treats cost about $10.75.  That seemed pricey.  I attributed the higher than expected cost to the shop being in the airport.  We had a quick way of translating the cost in pesos to the approximate cost in U.S. dollars.  We simply moved the decimal one place to the left.  In the above example, 116.00 pesos became 11.6 dollars.  We weren’t too far off with this conversion method.

 

Soon J.J. landed on his Aero Mexico flight.  J.J. brings many skills to the party.  The most important one for this trip would be his Spanish language skills.  He scored the maximum score back on his high school Advanced Placement test in Spanish.  His linguistic skills would save us more than one time on this trip.

 

It wasn’t long before J.J. had spoken to someone in Spanish, bought a map of the area and found the location of our track.  The NASCAR website calls the track’s location, Guadalajara.  In point of fact, the track is located in Tiajomulco de Zuniga, about 30 minutes to the south of Guadalajara.

 

We headed out to the track.  Before we could get there, we all agreed we needed a snack.  We stopped at one of the little roadside stands that serve chicken, beef and pork on spits just a few feet from the highway.  Please look at the photos at www.ranlayracing.com.  You’ll get a much better appreciation about what I’m talking about if you do.  Soon we were eating chicken tacos and sitting around a small outdoor table while our hosts stamped and cooked fresh corn tortillas.  Our Mexican culinary delights were just beginning.

 

We arrived at the racetrack at about 4 p.m.  They had just finished practice for the day.  We could only get as far as the front gate.  J.J. asked in Spanish what time tomorrow’s race was scheduled to begin.  He received answers of 9 a.m., 10 a.m. and 11 a.m.  My website info had told me the race would start at 1:30 p.m.  This amount of confusion was only the beginning of what we were going to be in for.

 

Our next stop would be our hotel for the two nights we would be in Guadalajara.  As you know, I am quite content to stay in Super 8s and Motel 6s when I travel by myself.  I figure that I often get into the hotel very late and leave very early.  I rarely even turn on the TV when I stay in a hotel room.

 

However, when Trackchasing’s First Mother is with me, the standard of care rises dramatically.  You see, I would like her to WANT to come on another trip and then another trip.  I have to treat her well in order to avoid burn out.

 

I had a minor “ace up my sleeve” for the hotel.  Airline crews get very nice discounts when they stay overnight on their trips.  Roger was able to book us in the Presidente InterContinental Hotel Guadalajara (http://www.ichotelsgroup.com/h/d/ic/1/en/hotel/gdlha?_requestid=333318).  This is one of the best hotels in town.  It’s similar to a Hyatt or Marriott with the large open atrium that spans the hotel lobby.  There was white marble everywhere.  We were even upgraded to some very large rooms with excellent views of the Sierra Madre Mountains.  Yes, it pays to know people.

 

After a very short late afternoon nap, we were ready to go out on the town.  Rather than battle the heavy downtown traffic for the evening, we “cabbed it” for our sightseeing and dinner plans.

 

The weather for the evening was absolutely gorgeous.  The temperature was near 75 degrees.  Cabs are inexpensive in Guadalajara.  Our hotel was about 15 minutes from the “Centro” of downtown.  It was Saturday night and people were about.  There are a large number of old Gothic Roman Catholic churches in the center of town.  They are exquisite inside.  We entered several of them.  One wedding was in progress as tourists like ourselves peeked in and took photos.

 

About every half block, there was one form of music or another.  There were Mariachi bands, wind instrument bands and break-dancers seeking a few pesos for their efforts.  By the way, did you know that Mariachi music began in Guadalajara?  Guadalajara is not a resort city.  It is not near the ocean and doesn’t get the tourist trade that Mexico City does or those locations located on the water.

 

During the entire two days we were in the area, we heard only one person speaking American English.  We ended up touring his home!  I’ll tell you more about that later.  Our walk in town took us past some hotels that were frequented by what you might call “women of the night”.  They did not leave much to the imagination.  I only saw one beggar (and he wasn’t very aggressive) during our entire trip.

 

After some quality time spent in downtown Guadalajara, it was time for dinner.  When I travel in foreign countries, I want to eat what the locals eat.  I also want to eat in the very best places.  There are no American fast food places for me when I travel internationally.  My one exception to the rule is that if I’m eating several meals in a foreign country, I will sample a McDonalds just to see what unique menu items they might offer.  They always offer something I’ve never seen in a McDonalds before.

 

J.J. had received three restaurant recommendations from the hotel.  Of course, we were only in the market for Mexican food.  Carol and I eat sitdown Mexican food at least once a week in local San Clemente restaurants.  By the way, I do NOT consider Taco Bell to be Mexican food.

 

Even though our cabbie got lost (not a problem since we were traveling on a fixed fare), we finally found the Santo Coyote restaurant.  It’s located at 2379 Lerdo de Tarjeta in Guadalajara.  As a point of reference let me share this with you.  During the first 15 years of my business career, I ate in the finest restaurants our nation had to offer.  Restaurant bills including drinks would frequently touch $100 per person and this was in the 70s and 80s.  I have a good deal of experience eating in upscale restaurants of nearly all ethnicities.

 

With that as background, let me say that I have never ever eaten in a Mexican restaurant that comes close to the overall dining experience at the Santo Coyote.  Please go to www.ranlayracing.com for some pictures of the food we were served.  You’ll want to go out and get some Mexican cuisine for dinner tonight.

 

The restaurant has what I would call indoor/outdoor dining.  We were greeted by a most friendly and beautiful hostess in the restaurant lobby.  The restaurant’s courtyard, which much have been the size of two tennis courts, had huge trees sheltering the diners.  In the trees were several large pineapple shaped amber lights.  It was beautiful.

 

We were soon seated at a table for four just under one of the rooflines.  There were balconies where other guests looked over the entire scene while they ate their dinner.  When we arrived at our table, the table next to us was being serenaded by a 10-piece Mariachi band.  I don’t know how long they had been playing at that table before we arrived, but they played for 45 minutes there after we sat down.  Normally, I wouldn’t like that much Mariachi music that close by for that long, but the restaurant was so expansive it didn’t bother us.

 

Soon we were being served some of the most beautifully prepared and delicious Mexican foods I have ever eaten.  We started off with salsa and chips.  The chips were right out of the fryer.  The salsa was prepared to our taste (spicy) at our table from a series of ten dishes that contained peppers, onions, and lots of other tasty spices and vegetables.

 

Next, came the soup and salads.  I ordered the tortilla soup.  My bowl was presented with just dry tortilla chips in it.  The server came along and poured the liquid tortilla soup broth that brought the chips alive. 

 

Carol and J.J. shared shrimp fajitas.  The shrimp were absolutely huge.  I had a shrimp dish as well.  Those shrimp were nearly the size of hot dogs!  Of course, we had the requisite Corona beers and Mexican coffee to wash it all down.  The courses were not served rapidly.  We did not have to be anywhere anytime soon.  Every few minutes Mexican dancers came out on the dance floor in at least three different locations to entertain us.  We finished off our meal with a beautiful looking Mexican dessert (from a choice of ten).  The dessert featured a brownie-layered bottom, topped by a Mexican flan and nuts.  Deeeeelicious.

 

I don’t want to be crass and ruin your vision about our dining experience with very much talk about the dinner’s cost.  However…..we had 3-4 drinks per person, the appetizer’s, huge entrees and dessert for a cost of just over $30 per person.  That meal would likely cost twice as much and not be nearly as good at home and we have great Mexican food in SoCal.  This meal was the highlight of the trip.

 

It was now midnight.  A cab was waiting to take us back to our luxury hotel.  Tonight we were experiencing what European trackchasers get to have all the time.  We were getting to eat and entertain ourselves in the evening with our races being run during the day.  Normally, American trackchasers have no time for a quality meal in the evening because we are sitting through some mindless delay of late starts and yellow flags.  Our day was now complete.  It had been a marvelous success and not a racing wheel had been turned……yet.

 

Sunday morning – Guadalajara, Mexico

 

Today’s race was scheduled to begin at 1:30 p.m.  That gave J.J., Carol and I time to go to Catholic Church services at a church just a few blocks away.  Obviously, we were the only Americans in the church.  I was surprised that the congregation did not sing any hymns during the service.

 

Following church, we stopped off at a Mexican pastry shop.  We filled a bag full of special treats and made our way back to the hotel.  We did pass through a traditional shopping mall and noticed several American branded stores.  You just can’t get away from those Americans!

 

 

Sunday afternoon and evening – South of Guadalajara, Mexico

 

Following the race, which ended just before 3 p.m., we had more touring to do.  We wanted to find the “pyramids” that were in the area and possibly visit the town where tequila was invented.  We never found either but we did come across some interesting sights.

 

The first was a small Mexican village that was having their annual festival.  This village was definitely third world with brick pavers used for the town’s street surfaces.  We parked and nosed around a bit.  We ended up having some most unusual and tasty Mexican ice cream cones. 

 

As we drove on, we came upon Lago de Chapala (Lake Chapala), the largest lake in the state of Jalisco.  We saw a few real estate “open house” signs and decided to go take a look at what a Mexican home would look like from the inside.

 

The home we looked at was situated on a hillside overlooking the lake.  The home was part of 45 sites where primarily Americans lived.  The owner, a native of Virginia, was trying to sell his house on his own.  He and his wife had lived there for three years.

 

The owner told us his house was 2,700 square feet in size.  They measure all surfaces that are under a roof including the patios” in the square footage number, he told us.  This was a nicely appointed, mainly brick two bedroom home.  The asking price was $345,000.  The owner told us his annual real estate taxes were just $62!!  He also employed a gardener for five hours each week at a cost of $26.  His maid worked for  even less.  We spent about 30 minutes in this fellow’s home and he proudly told us about his Mexican residential experience.  He also pointed out that “there’s a Wal-Mart, Costco, Sam’s and Sears, all within a few miles as well as a McDonalds and Burger King”.  I guess you might forget you were living in central Mexico with such an American influence.

 

On the way back to the hotel, we stopped at a Pemex gas station to fill up our Dodge Avenger.  In this part of Mexico, they fill the tank for you.  The receipt says we got 33.8 liters of gasoline at an expense of 237.60 pesos.  I think that’s about 8.9 gallons for $22 or a charge of $2.47 per gallon.

 

We returned to the hotel on Sunday evening at 7:45 p.m.  We had time for one more local Mexican food dinner.  Again, we relied on the hotel staff for a dinner recommendation.  They did not disappoint.

 

The restaurant was within walking distance of the hotel on another beautiful weather evening with temps in the low 70s.  J.J.’s Spanish skills smoothed the way for our dinner enjoyment.

 

We were served plates of “asada” (beef) and an unending supply of corn tortillas, beans, onions and guacamole.  We ate until we burst and then walked back to the hotel.  It was one fine meal.

 

 

Monday morning – Leaving Guadalajara, Mexico

 

On Monday morning, J.J. and Roger had to leave early to begin their flying workdays back in Florida and Texas respectively.  Carol and I had a more leisurely wake-up call at 5:45 a.m. (3:45 a.m. San Clemente time) for our 7:40 a.m. Guadalajara time Delta Airlines departure.

 

It was eerie driving in the dark to the airport.  The Mexican culture walks much more than we Americans do.  Even at this early hour they were walking along the sides of the roads and waiting at bus stops as their week’s workday was about to begin.

 

I dropped Carol at the airport so she could begin the line manipulation while I returned the rental car.  It’s really great to have such an independent spouse who can navigate on her own.  That way, we can both be “multi-tasking” to make the trip go smoother.  In no time, we had cleared Mexican security and were rewarded with first class seats on our way home to Los Angeles on Delta Airlines.

 

Clearing customs back in the U.S. was a snap.  It took us less than one minute in fact.  This was a great trackchasing trip.  The actual racing was the lowlight, but the rest of the adventure was some of the best touring (for only two days) that we had ever done.

 

 



The People

 

We were fortunate to have our son, J.J. and his friend Roger Ward accompanying us on this trip.  It’s fun as a parent of adult children to know that they don’t might “hanging out” with their parents from time to time.  Our kids have always been great about this.

 

J.J.’s presence was especially valuable on this trip.  The official language of Mexico is Spanish.  Carol and I don’t speak Spanish although I did take it in high school.

 

I graduated from high school in Illinois in 1967.  At the time, I had never met a Spanish-speaking person and didn’t think I ever would.  Therefore, I didn’t put much time into my Spanish studies.  Our semester grading period was broken down into three six-week periods.  One semester my first six weeks grade was an “F”.  The basketball coach explained to me that I would not be playing any basketball for him if my Spanish grade did not improve.

 

With this extra motivation, I improved my second six-week’s grade to a “B”.  I played basketball.  The third six-week grading period would end after the basketball season was finished.  Therefore, from my point of view, there was no need to study any more Spanish!  This resulted in my third six weeks grade being an “F” again.  They felt sorry for this jock and gave me a numerical grade of 70 for the final semester grade, the lowest of “Ds” that a student could get.

 

Fortunately, J.J. took after Carol when it came to getting good grades.  His high school language was Spanish.  He ended up getting a score of five on the high school Spanish advanced placement test (score range 1-5) and getting college credit for his Spanish.  J.J.’s Spanish ability really added to the enjoyment of everyone’s trip this weekend.

 

J.J. invited a friend along.  His friend’s was is Roger Ward.  My racing readers know that the name “Roger Ward” is famous in Indy racing circles.  Our” Roger Ward is a pilot for Express Jet, the commuter airline for Continental Airlines.  Roger was a student of J.J.’s back when J.J. was instructing at flight school.

 

This weekend’s track was the first one we had ever seen in Mexico.  This weekend’s track was the first auto race that Roger had ever seen in his life.  That just goes to show you how competitive trackchasing can be.  Even though I have 1,281 lifetime tracks, Roger, after seeing only one track, is tied with me in Mexico!!

 

Roger’s primary background is with the U.S. Army.  He only recently retired as a captain in that branch of the service.  Roger is very much looking forward to his commercial flying career.  It was fun listening to J.J. and Roger talk “airline shop”.

 

We also enjoyed being able to ask questions of Roger about his military experience in Iraq.   He served a 2-year tour over there and has a good deal of experience with the Iraqi people.  Roger, it was great having you along for the trip.  I hope you enjoyed yourself.  

 

 

 

 

 

STATE RANKINGS


This was Carol’s and my first ever trackchasing trip to Mexico and therefore our first ever visit to the Mexican state of Jalisco.  We are both tied with nine other trackchasers for the count